NOTES

1 Pierre Bourdieu, Outline of a Theory of Practice. R. Nice translation. (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1977), 79-80.

2 Barbara Tepa Lupack, Silent Serial Sensations. (Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Press, 2020), 2.

3 Ben Singer, “Female Power in the Serial-Queen Melodrama: The Etiology of an Anomaly.” Camera Obscura 8, No. 1 (January 1, 1990), 90–129.

4 “Stunt Merchants,” The Picturegoer (May 1921), 8-9.

5 Denise Green, “Fashion and Fearlessness in the Wharton Studio’s Silent Film Serials, 1914-1919.” Framework 60, No. 1, Spring 2019, pp. 83–115.

6 Marina Dahlquist, Exporting Perilous Pauline: Pearl White and Serial Film Craze. (Champaign, IL: University of Illinois Press, 2013), 13.

7 Shelley Stamp, “Women and the Silent Screen.” The Wiley-Blackwell History of American Film, First Edition. Edited by Cynthia Lucia, Roy Grundmann, and Art Simon. (Hoboken, NJ: Blackwell Publishing, 2012), 1.

8 Naomi McDougall Jones, The Wrong Kind of Women: Inside Our Revolution to Dismantle the Gods of Hollywood. (Boston, MA: Beacon Press, 2020).

9 Dahlquist, 13.

10 Ben Singer, Melodrama and Modernity; Early Sensational Cinema and Its Contexts. (New York: Columbia University Press, 2001), 224.

11 Michelle Tolini Finamore, “Fashioning Early Cinema: Dress and Representation in American Film, 1905–1930” (dissertation, The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design, and Culture, 2010), 166.

12 Denise N. Green, “The Best Known and Best Dressed Woman in America: Irene Castle and Silent Film Style.” DRESS 43, No. 2, (2017); Finamore; Randy Brian Bigham, Lucile: Her Life by Design. (San Francisco: MacEvie Press Group, 2014).

13 Louis Pizzitola, Hearst Over Hollywood: Power, Passion, and Propaganda in the Movies. (New York: Columbia University Press, 2002).

14 Ibid.

15 Jack Doyle, “Pearl White, 1910s-1920s.” PopHistory (April 23, 2008). http://www.pophistorydig.com/topics/tag/perils-of-pauline/

16 "Beatrice in the Films." Cosmopolitan (1886) 61, no. 6 (11, 1916): 49.

17 Bigham,154.

18 Green, 2017: 77-98; 88.

19 Finamore, 128.

20 Finamore, 121-124, 220, 231-232; Green, 2017: 77-98; 89.

21 William Lloyd Wright, “Dame Fashion and the Movies,” Motion Picture Magazine, 108.

22 Green, 2017: 77-98.

23 “Make-up,” Smithsonian Institution, https://www.si.edu/spotlight/health-hygiene-and-beauty/make-up.

24 “Make-up,” Smithsonian Institution, https://www.si.edu/spotlight/health-hygiene-and-beauty/make-up.

25 Vogue (Nov. 1, 1923), 155.

26 Vogue (Sept. 1, 1925), 116.

27 Vogue (Sept. 1, 1925), 116.

28 Vogue (July 1, 1921), 93.

29 Donor Comments, “Snippings of Hair, 1914,” Museum of the City of New York, #48.9.35AB.

30 Advertisement: National Hair Goods Company, Inc., Women’s Wear, May 7, 1915, 15.

31 Vogue, February 15, 1916, 125); Harper’s Bazaar, October 1917, 109.

32 Barbara Cohen-Stratyner, “Fashion Filler in Silent Film Periodicals.” Performing Arts Resources 14 (1989): 132.

33 "Sidelights on the Stars no. 7 PEARL WHITE." Pictures and the Picturegoer (Archive: 1914-1920) 19, no. 347 (October 9, 1920): 421.